How Cathode Ray Tubes Work. [video]
The video explores CRT display technology, dominant for 70 years before LCDs rose. CRTs use electrons on phosphorus screens, guided by electromagnets. Evolution from B&W to color displays is discussed.
Read original articleThe YouTube video delves into the technology of CRT (Cathode Ray Tube) displays, which reigned for 70 years until LCD displays gained prominence in the early 2000s. CRT monitors utilize electrons to form images on a phosphorus-coated screen, with electromagnets guiding the electron beam to swiftly draw lines. The discussion extends to the role of magnets in screen geometry, the evolution of television production from the 1930s to the 1950s, and the persistence of black and white TVs and monochrome computer monitors until the 1990s. Monochrome monitors were favored in the 1970s and 80s for their cost-effectiveness and high-resolution displays, while color CRTs employ 3 electron guns and a shadow mask to generate diverse colors on the screen.
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I feel like I have a much better basic understanding of CRTs now. They felt like utter magic before. Now it just feels a bit like magic. The only thing that still confuses me is how the electron gun itself actually works. I don't really get how electrons are being shot at all and why we can shoot them in a beam.
I built one of those bottle accelerators but with some mods using a smaller Stuart's soda bottle. Cathode is a 0.5 in diameter Al spacer bushing mounted to one end of a 0.25 inch aluminum tube punched through a rubber stopper and the other to a tube adapter screwed to a KF25 vac flange. I then rigged up a stand to hold a vacuum manifold connected to my Alcatel 2008 vac pump and could pull a nice vacuum down to 0.4 Pa. The bottle gun's anode is a loop of 12 AWG copper wire inserted into a drilled hole and sealed with Faraday wax (safe and easy to make but messy and does not easily clean up.) Finally, wired it to my 200W Bertan +10kV 20mA supply. The +10kV lets me setup the gun as a common cathode putting the electron gun parts at ground potential. Only the anode is at high potential. I then decided to see if I could focus the beam and MacGyverd a lens out of a big 2 inch conduit bushing I had lying around in the electrics bin. Wound a bunch of 20 AWG magnet wire around it and found that building a big enough field to focus and sat it around the bottle neck. That big hunk of steel took a crap ton more power than I thought - I could focus the beam to midway of the bottle at around 300W (30V DC @ 10A)into the focus lens (yes it got very hot)! At full beam power I can melt holes in tin foil sheet using a focused beam.
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