The Katsuification of Britain
The katsuification of Britain highlights the growing popularity of katsu curry, raising questions about authenticity and cultural appropriation, while showcasing its unique evolution within British food culture.
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the katsuification of Britain was a positive trend, she noted that while it reflects a growing appreciation for Japanese cuisine, it also raises questions about authenticity and cultural appropriation. The phenomenon of katsuification illustrates how a dish can evolve and adapt within a new cultural context, leading to a diverse array of interpretations that may stray from traditional roots. The popularity of katsu curry in the UK has surged, with fast-food chains and supermarkets embracing it in various forms, from chicken nuggets to sandwiches and even baby food. This trend is unique to Britain, as katsu curry has not gained similar traction in other countries. The dish's origins can be traced back to British influences on Japanese cuisine, highlighting a complex relationship between the two cultures. As katsu curry continues to permeate British food culture, it raises discussions about culinary identity and the blending of global influences.
- Katsuification refers to the widespread popularity of katsu curry in Britain.
- Fast-food chains and supermarkets have introduced various katsu curry products.
- The trend is unique to the UK and does not reflect a broader international movement.
- Katsu curry's origins are linked to British influences on Japanese cuisine.
- The phenomenon raises questions about authenticity and cultural appropriation in food.
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13 commentsA similar phenomenon of culinary appropriation and adaptation might be the Nepali-run Indian restaurants in Japan. In the past twenty years or so, they have spread to nearly every corner of the country. Though independently owned and run, they have largely similar menus, with food that, I've read, would seem out of place in both Nepal and India.
A recent book in Japanese [1] does a good job of tracing their origins and their role in giving immigration and employment opportunities to Nepalis.
[1] https://shinsho.shueisha.co.jp/kikan/1208-n/
Addendum: After I posted the above, I counted in my head the number of Nepali/Indian restaurants within a twenty-minute walk of my home in Yokohama and came up with six (I’ve eaten at all of them). It turns out that there are several more. Here’s a map of my neighborhood with them marked:
https://www.gally.net/temp/20240823_Indian_Nepali_restaurant...
If anyone wants to see what they look like on Google Street View or search for others, here’s a link:
https://www.google.com/maps/search/%E3%82%A4%E3%83%B3%E3%83%...
Probably none of them have katsu curry on the menu, though I have been to a few Nepali/Indian restaurants in Japan that did serve it—no doubt to appeal to less-adventurous Japanese tastes.
I can think of a few grocery stores here that have "Katsu Curry" at the to-go section - definitely not the finest example of the art, but still pretty good. It has been pretty popular in San Francisco for a long time. Although, the post-pandemic era, I've definitely noticed a large uptick in places that serve it. I can think of a few reasons why that is, due to SF's history and culture. I have very fond memories of my last job circa 2015 or so: waiting in line for Muraccis on Kearny.
It doesn't seem anything like what's going on in the UK at the moment, though. I hope that larger trend takes hold here, it really is one of my favorite comfort foods. Golden Curry is a staple in my home.
Also, I've not often seen it called Katsu Curry in the US. That is definitely a name that would be considered accurate, but more common I've heard might be "Japanese Curry" (an important distinction) or "curry rice". It is definitely the same food, though.
If you haven't had a Japanese curry in Japan, and you didn't make it from scratch, whatever you get will be a poor imitation. Real Japanese curry tastes both fresh, simple, vegetal and clean, and artificial, at the same time.
If you care deeply about food and you haven't been to Japan, I can't recommend it enough. As a tourist I've never been anywhere else that's so easy to have a great meal. It used to be dirt cheap to fly there if you booked in advance, but I guess inflation and time has upped the price a bit.
(cheapest east coast round-trip is JFK-NRT @ $709, with Alaskan & JAL. if you want more bang for your buck, check Skiplagged; for $823 you can spend 14 hours in Atlanta and 23 hours in Vancouver, or for $1,100 spend 21 hours in Istanbul, or 23 hours in Seoul, or for $1,231 spend 21 hours in Honolulu, or for $1,334 spend 23 hours in Honolulu and 20 hours in Osaka)
My current favourite katsu place is Kokoro in Liverpool. Always hits the spot.
So I was about to dismiss the article but the really interesting part is further down. Katsu curry is really British anyway! This makes sense when you think about it a bit. The British nicked all the delicious food from Indian at a time when British food was "boil vegetables for an hour, discard the veg and drink the water". That's where things like HP sauce, pickles, chutneys etc come from and, of course, "curry powder". There's no such thing as curry powder in India (confusingly there's the unrelated curry leaves). It was just anglicised Indian flavours. Of course they would make a starch thickened sauce with it...
There are far superior forms of "katsu" out there, the greatest being the chicken Katsudon or chicken Katsu egg don.
I'll fight anyone that disagrees.
Certainly chicken is increasingly popular, fish and chips is almost a boutique food these days since fish is expensive and also very easy to make badly. Whereas chicken is cheaper and easier https://archive.is/Mu1DL
E.g. https://www.publix.com/pd/publix-potato-chips-kettle-cooked-... (one of the things pictured is in the bag; the other is not)
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